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Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
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Surfing only looks like a sport. To devotees, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a mental and physical study, a passionate way of life. William Finnegan first started surfing as a young boy in California and Hawaii.
Barbarian Days is his immersive memoir of a life spent travelling the world chasing waves through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa and beyond. Finnegan describes the edgy yet enduring brotherhood forged among the swell of the surf; and recalling his own apprenticeship to the world's most famous and challenging waves, he considers the intense relationship formed between man, board and water.
Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, a social history, an extraordinary exploration of one man's gradual mastering of an exacting and little-understood art. It is a memoir of dangerous obsession and enchantment.
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A note on book covers: while we do our best to ensure the accuracy of cover images, ISBNs may at times be reused for different editions of the same title which may hence appear as a different cover.
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One Line Summary
A surfer's memoir of passion, adventure, and mastery.
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Who is this book for?
If you love stories about pursuing passion and adventure, you'll find Barbarian Days captivating. Finnegan's vivid storytelling transports you to some of the world's most incredible waves, showing the deep bonds and personal growth that come with a relentless pursuit of a challenging art. It's a compelling read for anyone drawn to the thrill of exploration and the beauty of dedication.